North Bourke to Louth 215 km

 

Arriving in Bourke I needed to find a location to leave my car securely for 3 weeks while I paddled downstream. The Back of Bourke Information Centre suggested I ask Tracy at Kidmans Camp Caravan Park in North Bourke. Fortunately Tracy was happy to assist and I was able leave the car there and camp the night before launching next morning (July 11th).

Day 1 (11/7/2022) Kidmans Camp to Myandetta Station Campsite 43 km past Bourke

With the river in flood the billabong next to Kidmans Camp was full so I was able launch and paddle into the river from there. Kidmans Camp is 10 km by river north of Bourke. The river was flowing fast and finding the main channel was a little tricky but a quick look at my GPS app confirmed I was on the river. 


From there I was very soon paddling under the Gateway Bridge and not long after I was passing the Port of Bourke.


Gateway Bridge, Bourke



Port of Bourke

I was aware from the map there was a weir downstream of Bourke and from prior research thought I may have to portage around it. At this water level the weir was not visible (there are 4 weirs between Bourke and Wilcannia, I paddled over the top of all of them on this trip).

The birdlife was amazing, Whistling Kites, Yellow Billed Spoonbills, Fairy Martins, Red Tailed Black Cockatoos and Rufous Herons were prolific in this stretch. My highlight was 3 Brolgas flying across the river ahead of me.

I got off the river at 4:00 pm and set up camp just down stream of Myandetta Station. There were station outbuildings visible through the trees about 400 metres away. I couldn’t see anyone about although I could hear dogs barking occasionally.


 

I cooked dinner about 6:00 pm and then went to bed to read. I was awakened by the sound of a  quad bike (I think) and then a volley of gunshots. There was about a dozen shots of lighter calibre in quick succession and then 2 heavier calibre shots. I assumed someone was roo shooting so I just lay there in my sleeping bag expecting more shots but it was quiet from then and I went back to sleep.

Day 2 (12/7/2022) Myandetta Station to campsite 86 km past Bourke

Up early and on the water by 8:10 am. A nice sunny day with lots of Fairy Martins (swallows) flitting across the water. Found some nice shortcuts. Stopped at 3:30 pm at a campsite near Toorale. The campground was very muddy but I found some dry ground to set up my tent on. There was a dunny block but it required wading through ankle deep mud to get there. 


Muddy Get Out


perfect evening - campfire and a good book!


The clear sky promised a very cold night so I started a campfire after setting up camp. Very frustrated as I was able to send SMS to Lisa but wasn’t getting any response so I wasn’t sure whether she was getting them. Eventually I sent an email and got a reply so I was happier.

Lisa had been replying to my messages but the replies were not getting through.

Communications were a struggle throughout this trip mainly due to my love of a cheap deal. Aldi Telstra does not work out here. My research later revealed about 1% of the Telstra network is not accessible to reseller deals – mostly in remote areas.



Bird Highlights: A White Bellied Sea Eagle, an Emu on the bank and some White-Necked Herons standing tall.

Day 3 (13/7/2022) Campsite 86 km past Bourke to Campsite 110 km past Bourke.

A bit weary this morning, mucked around with the fire before breakfast and took a long time loading the kayak. Finally on the water around 8:45 pm. Paddled until 1:30 pm. Was looking for a lunch spot for 30 minutes before finding a spot that was to be my camp site. Nasty cold southerly wind that settled later on. Lazy afternoon


This bend in the river is called Redbank

Day 4 (14/7/2022) Campsite 110 km past Bourke to Campsite 160 km past Bourke

Much better day, started packing at 5:30 pm and had a leisurely breakfast but was on the water by 7:10 pm. Paddled to 11:00 am and then had an early lunch. Spoke to a woman on the bank near a station house – 1st person I had spoken to since Bourke. 

Flocking Cockatoos

Sunny all day. Stopped paddling at 3:00 pm. Now only 45 km to Louth – hoping to get there tomorrow although intel suggests the pub has closed and there isn't much else there.




Early morning



Day 5 (15/7/2022) Campsite 160 km past Bourke to Louth (45 km)

Cold night -3 degrees. Ice on the tent – fortunately the campfire stayed alight all night. Just a stoke and the fire was roaring. Didn’t get on the water until 8:50 am. Glorious day – sunny and warm at midday. Stopped for lunch at midday having covered 25 km. Frustrated that I can’t get mobile coverage – must be true that Aldi Telstra doesn’t work here. 


Lunch - Check the muddy shoes


Paddled on to Louth and was happy to find that Shindy’s Inn was open and has not been closed at anytime. Beer and pie  followed by more beer and pie. Able to call Lisa from public phone. Bird Highlights; Red-Tailed Black Cockatoos and 3 Brolgas (possibly the same brolgas as earlier).


Enjoying Shindy's Inn


Day 6 (16/7/2022) Rest Day in Louth

Discovering hot showers in the public amenities started the day on a good note.

Shindy's Inn

Hot showers! - Yippee!

Public phones are free call to anywhere in Australia


By lunchtime it had clouded over so I was not motivated to leave. Turned out well – Shindy’s had pizza on offer for dinner. I paired up with Rob who was traveling to charity cycling event starting in Broken Hill. He was excellent company and we had a pleasant evening chatting over Toohey’s Old.


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