Pooncarie to Wentworth

Unfinished Business 

It has been 3 years since I paddled into Pooncarie. At the time I had no idea when I would return to paddle the final stretch to Wentworth. I had in fact resigned myself to not finishing my Darling River journey. In 2024 I ridden my pushbike through the area from Wentworth to Menindee (Going North with Burke and Wills). Family changes and a year studying Commercial Cookery had prevented other adventures temporarily. I had in fact resigned myself to not finishing my Darling River journey.

In mid 2026 I found myself with time and opportunity to go back to Pooncarie with my kayak. I drove up to Wentworth with an overnight stop at Sea Lake. 

Egret at Lock 11 Mildura

Sea Lake Camping (Tarp over tent)

I spent a night at Wanderers Crossing Caravan Park before going Pooncarie the next day. I left my pushbike at the caravan park so I could travel back to Pooncarie to collect my car after arriving in Wentworth at the end of the kayak journey

Day 1 Pooncarie to just past Akuna

Signs at the boat ramp warning re:water quality and downstream access

Slow start to the day. Left the caravan park at Wentworth and drove to Pooncarie. Arriving about 10:00 am.I checked out a couple of launch spots. The boat ramp in the multipurpose park seem most viable however there was a sign that said there was no downstream access at the Pooncarie Weir.

I tried to find the weir to check it but I couldn't find any directions so I went back to the boat ramp. I decided to launch there and to paddle back upstream if I couldn’t find a way around it. It took me a long time to pack the kayak and just when I was ready to go I discovered I didn’t have any paddling gloves. This meant another trip back to the car that I had parked in town.

Having got the gloves I realised I didn’t have a “half deck”. Not essential but annoying. I decided to go without. I did not want to do another trip back to the car.

I launched at 12:15 - the kayak felt very heavy and sluggish and there was no flow. It took me 30 minutes to pass the the Old Wharf site. As the crow flies that was less than a kilometre but by river is 3 kilometres.

Pooncarie Weir from river level

I arrived at the Weir about 1:30 pm. There was a couple of “crusties” fishing high up on the bank. I chatted with them while I worked out how to proceed.

My only choice was to drag the kayak up the 30 metre bank and then put it on the trolley and roll it past the weir and then bank down the bank. It took a big effort and when I had the kayak on the bank the trolley did not cooperate. The fully loaded kayak was really too heavy for the trolley but eventually I managed to get back on the water 40 minutes later. 

After the weir there was some flow and paddling was easier. The river was quite shallow and in some places there were snags right across the river.

I found my campsite at 4:00 pm and got off the river and set up camp. When I checked my gps location I was disheartened to see I was only 15-18 km downstream of Pooncarie. I rationalised that it was due to time lost at the weir and the extra 3 kms before town. 

I needed to make better progress or I would run out of water before Wentworth. I was carrying 16 litres of drinking water and I did have a water filtration system as well. The state of the river is so bad that I would have to very desperate to resort to drinking from the river even with very good filtration

I was able to send a satellite message to Lisa to check in and was happy to get a message back.

1st night campsite

Day 2 Akuna Station to Lethero Station 55 km downstream of Pooncarie (40km)

Slept pretty well. Out of the sleeping bag at 7:00. Grey and misty to start with and then grey all day. Very occasionally the sun broke through briefly.

On the water at 8:30 paddling steadily but progress seemed slow. There almost no flow. Every hour I checked the map and confirmed that I was only going about 6 kph. At 12:30 I stopped for lunch and checked the map again, only 24 km since breakfast, it was going to be slow trip to Wentworth.

On the map there was a possible weir, a handwritten note with a question mark at 45 km downstream. Sure enough it appeared and fortunately it was easy to negotiate. The drop was small and it was tempting to paddle through but I did the right thing and dragged the kayak through a rocky race on the lefthand side

From there it was more steady paddling until 4:00 when I found a nice sandy beach and set up camp. Above the bank there was a sheep property with buildings in the distance. There was also a dog barking frequently, it settled down at night.

185 km to go to Wentworth. I didn't think it would get any faster so another 5 days seemed likely.

Day 3 Lethero Station to Cavan Station (38km)

Tried for earlier start to knock off some kilometres - started paddling at 8:10 and went steadily until lunch at 12:50. Had only covered 25 km - just above 5kph. Unless something changed 40 km per day seems like the best I can do on this river.

Oh well it was a lovely sunny day and there were loads of birds about. Whistling Kites, Pelican, Rufous Swallows, Fairy Martens, White Winged Choughs, Murray Parrots and quite a few more.

A lot of the day I was expecting a weir that was noted on the map in this area. The note suggested there would a be low bridge as well. I did go under 2 low bridges but did not encounter a weir. Burgundy Weir is about 10 km downstream from here, that will be tomorrow’s challenge.

I had  a lovely campsite for the night on a sandy beach. I was asleep shortly after 7:00 pm, I was very tired.

Day 4 Cavan Station to Ashvale (35km)

Out of bed at 6:00 am, enjoyed breakfast with the stars waiting for sunrise. Beautiful sky! Last night was close to a full moon so it was very bright most of the night. The moon had sunk below the horizon just before dawn so was it dark for breakfast. Lots of satellites passing.

On the water at 7:30 knowing that Bertundy Weir was 10 km down river. Lovely paddling in the morning quiet.

Just before 9:30 a woman called out to me from a house balcony above the river. She told me the weir was 1 km downstream, I could already hear it. It was actually hard to see from upstream, a bit like the edge of infinite pool.

I approached the weir warily as there was no signage and the current seemed quite strong. I hopped out on the right hand side to reconnoiter. The left bank offered an easier portage but the strong current might have pushed me sideways. I took a longer portage on the right hand bank which seemed safest. I dragged the kayak about 50 metres through some scrub. More scratches on the kayak.

Burtundy Weir

After the weir there was a low bridge that I went under easily. From there the paddling was glorious all day. Sunshine with a cool breeze. The river was more snaggy after the weir and that meant steering was more interesting.

A good stop for lunch, cheese and crackers and cup-a-soup followed by more coffee.

At 1:20 I was halfway to Wentworth, 120 kms done, 120 kms to go. Decided to stop paddling and set up camp after 130 km mark. Another lovely spot at river level.

Day 5 Sturts Billabong 68 km upstream of Wentworth (42 km)

On the water at 7:45 - couldn't get moving in the morning. I was out of bed having breakfast at 6:00 am. I farted around relighting the fire so I could warm my paddling boots. Waste of time as I had to step into the water fairly quickly after launching.

I came to a snag (tree in the water) that was right across the river. I attempted to go through a gap but got stuck on submerged branches. I probably could have bounced over them but was wary of being pinned by another branch.

With the low flow it was easy to back out and fortunately there was a sandbar on the right hand side. I had to get out and drag the kayak. Wet boots for the rest of the day.

It was sunny again but with a cold wind. Lovely in the patches where the sun shone through out of the wind. The river widened and seemed deeper but I still managed to the shallow parts occasionally.

There were some longer reaches today and the river appeared to wind less. Even so I finished the day 68 km upstream of Wentworth. Apparently Wentowrth was only 10 km away by road at this point.

I spoke to some workers near a very large pump station. They told where I was when I asked. When I consulted the map it appeared as if I was 10 km downstreamfurther than I expected. 

Later I discovered I was where I originally expected to be. No fault there - one side of a river bend can be 100 metres away on land but the river can take many kilometres to get to that point.

Just before 4:00 I spotted a blue river distance marker that indicated 70 km to the confluence with the Murray River. I paddled on past No. 68 and found a camping spot.

I had to be careful not to paddle too far this day as the following day as there is nowhere to camp after No. 26.

Lots of birds again, pelicans, kites ducks, egrets, and some little birds that I couldn’t identify.

Day 6 Sturts Billabong to Stud Bend 34 km upstream of Wentworth (34 km)

Very cold night so I was reluctant to get out of my sleeping bag. I did force myself to move at 7:00 and was on the river at 8:30. Despite the lovely sunny morning my fingers were frozen for the 1st hour of paddling.

Eventually I warmed up but the difference between the sunny patches and the shady patches was remarkable. Note to self - pack hand warmers for inside my gloves next time I do a winter trip.

My progress has been consistently 5 kph. The river has widened out but there is no current whatsoever. It is like paddling a long winding lake. The speed consistency makes it easy to predict the distance covered and on the odd occasion a distance marker is sighted I have been very accurate.

I stopped for lunch and discovered I had mobile coverage so quickly rang Lisa. It was lovely to hear her voice. I could hear Logan in the background. They had been swimming. I was looking forward to snuggles from my grandson when I get home.

I pushed on to make sure I can get to the finish at a reasonable time tomorrow. I found a lovely campsite with abundant firewood. Another cold night ahead. No excuses for sleeping in tomorrow.

Birds highlights, Pelicans, Darters, Kites (black and whistling), Nankeen Herons, Willy Wagtails.

Day 7 Stud Bend to Wentworth 34 km

I was determined to get an early start so was out of bed at 5:45. Even so I was only on the water at 7:30. There was frost on the kayak, it was freezing.

The 1st 2 hours of paddling went quickly cutting through the flat water as mist rose from the surface. Then I needed to pee!

Trying to exit the kayak onto the back I slipped and was suddenly standing waist deep in the river. I scrambled onto the bank, I peed and then got back into the kayak. As sat down I notice my folding camp chair had dislodged. It was still attached to the kayak but was dangling over the side.

I twisted around and back to reach back to the chair. Rookie mistake! The kayak flipped and I was fully immersed. I dragged the kayak now full of water up onto the bank and emptied it. I relaunched the kayak and continued my paddling now in wet clothes. I was very cold.

Fortunately the sun was shining. I considered stopping to put on some warmer clothes but I have 1 set of paddling clothes. I was saving my other clothes for after the finish.

At 2:00 pm the Wentworth bridge came into view. I had been passing lots of flash riverside properties for over an hour. A little envy on my part but not really my style.

Disembarking at the boat ramp past the bridge I discovered I no longer had the locking pins for the kayak trolley. I was shocked as I am normally really careful to put back on the trolley frame when I remove the wheels to pack them away. I can only assume I left them behind at Pooncarie Weir last Sunday.

I was able to wheel the kayak into the caravan park where I booked a cabin for 2 nights.

I enjoyed a long shower, got some lunch,, collected my bike and did some laundry. A good day despite some misadventures.

Bird highlights - more pelicans in huge numbers, lots of darters, a flock of spoonbills

Day 8 Cycling back to Pooncarie to collect the car (80km)

Pooncarie is 120 km from Wentworth or thereabouts. Road signs here don’t line up so the 5km distance markers suggest 115 km while the direction signs suggest 127 km. In any case I only rode 80km before a kind gentleman and his wife offered me a ride.

I had stopped to take a break at the 80 km mark. I was doing fine and anticipating arriving in Pooncarie in another 2 hours. Graham and Terry (from Nowra) .stopped to check I was ok which I confirmed. I could have left it at that but Graham suggested they drive me the rest of the way.

I was happy to accept. I could have made it but it was slow going and the bonus was a great chat for 20 minutes and I got back to Wentworth earlier.

In Pooncarie I went into the "Pitstop" service station and general store to get an Elixir (Diet Coke and an ice cream). The shopkeeper who is also the town’s Ambulance Officer recognised my car and she asked if I was the “kayaker”.

She told she was very happy I had left my “Gone Paddling” sign in view on the dashboard. It contains details of my plans and some contact info. Apparently it is not uncommon for paddlers to leave their cars in town but not inform the locals. 

Being a very small town questions get asked about abandoned cars so she (Kerry?) was very happy that there were answers readily available.

90 minutes later I was back at Wentworth packing up all my gear to be ready for the long drive home. My Darling River journey was done!